This site contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.
If you’ve been anywhere on skincare social media in the last few years, you’ve seen influencers rave about dermaplaning (aka face shaving).
For years, we were told that shaving our faces as women would make the hair grow back thicker and darker. Of course, we now know that’s not true for most people. In fact, many claim dermaplaning has tonnes of benefits beyond hair removal.
I’m all for debunking skincare myths and liberating ourselves from senseless rules, but is dermaplaning as effective as influencers make it sound?
In this post, I’ll share my personal thoughts on face shaving and whether it deserves a place in your skincare routine:
Is dermaplaning good for your skin: my thoughts on face shaving
Today, I’m discussing dermaplaning, a popular skincare trend. I’ll explain what it is, how it works, and whether I think it’s worthwhile.
What is dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is a skincare technique that removes dead skin cells and fine facial hair using a razor. It’s designed to improve skin texture, even out skin tone, and soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In theory it can also help skincare sink in faster, and makeup apply smoother.
You can dermaplane in one of two ways: First, you can go to a dermaplaning professional who will shave for you. This tends to produce the best results. However, most people dermaplane at home.
You’ve probably seen a dermaplaning razor before, even if you didn’t know what it was at the time. Users simply apply shaving cream and hold the razor at a 45-degree angle to shave. Short strokes downward cut hair and scrape away dead skin cells.
Those TikToks of people spraying their faces with white powder to highlight all the fine hairs before shaving? That’s someone who is dermaplaning at home.
This is how it works:
How does dermaplaning work?
Step 1: The blade glides along the top layers of skin
First, the sharp blade glides along your face. This removes the topmost layers of skin, which mostly consist of dead skin cells.
Step 2: They remove vellus hair (peach fuzz)
The razor removes the vellus hairs present all over your face. These are the thin, almost translucent hairs that we have all over our bodies.
Most of the time, they’re barely visible, and most people often don’t particularly notice them. Still, some people just prefer the smoother look or find that their makeup goes on better without them.
While we’re here, i’ll also reconfirm that it is totally normal to have hair on your face! Especially ‘peach fuzz’. It’s not something to be ashamed of or consider abnormal.
Step 3: They also scrape away dead skin cells
While the dermaplaning tool removes hair, it also scrapes off dead skin cells to instantly improve skin texture. It leaves your skin feeling soft and smooth, since it’s another form of exfoliating.
Step 4: Exfoliation triggers cell renewal
The process of removing dead skin cells is called exfoliation. Beyond improving skin texture, exfoliating also encourages cell turnover. However, this cellular turnover isn’t anywhere near as powerful as that of a retinoid.
This means new, healthy skin cells rise to the surface, which can result in trading a dull complexion for a radiant, youthful appearance. For some people it can have this result, but not everyone. How effective is dermaplaning at exfoliating? I’ll get into that.
Is dermaplaning actually good for your skin?
Let me put it this way: dermaplaning isn’t bad for your skin. It can even out your skin texture, making it feel smooth to the touch. (And, no, it won’t prompt hair to grow back coarser and darker.)
That said, there are no real benefits to dermaplaning for the overall health of your skin. It’s marketed as being exfoliating, but it only impacts the outermost layer of skin, unlike a retinoid or true exfoliator. (Here are the best Korean chemical exfoliators if you’re interested.)
And even if you like the way it makes your face feel, dermaplaning isn’t right for all skin types or skin conditions. Reactive or sensitive skin is often irritated by micro-tears caused by the dermaplaning tool, especially if used incorrectly (which is easy to do!).
People with clog-prone skin should steer clear of face shaving. Even if you cleanse beforehand, the razor could spread bacteria and irritate your skin, worsening breakouts or causing folliculitis. I have also found that it can be irritating to the skin and hair follicle, causing acne-like bumps.
And since the hair isn’t removed at the root, follicles can become ingrown hairs. The blunted hairs curl or change direction below the skin surface, causing pain and discomfort. It doesn’t happen to everyone, but shaving your face definitely increases your risk.
However, if you like the way your skin feels post-shave, prefer a smoother canvas for makeup, and don’t have reactive or clog-prone skin, you can give it a go. Skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all.
What are the benefits of dermaplaning according to influencers?
- Removes peach fuzz: Fact
- Smooths skin texture: Most of the time
- Creates a glowing complexion: Partial truth (temporary effect, not a rule for everyone)
- Improves makeup application: Fact (unless you caused cuts!)
- Provides exfoliation without chemical exfoliants: Fact
- Helps prevent acne: Myth
- Increases skincare absorption: Partial truth
- Encourages collagen production: Myth
- Improves lymphatic drainage: Myth
- Reduces fine lines: Myth
- Reduces hyperpigmentation: Myth
- Tightens pores: Myth
- Improves skin elasticity: Myth
What you should do instead of dermaplaning: try a retinoid
If you want true anti-aging benefits and glowy-from-within skin, you should consider a retinoid – not a face razor. Retinoids have decades of scientific evidence for their efficacy, which makes them immediately more effective than dermaplaning.
Retinoids stimulates collagen and elastin production. At the same time, a retinoid encourages cell turnover to reduce signs of aging and maintain a youthful appearance. Skin gets glowier and smoother, acne is reduced.
And with improved cell turnover, retinoids help fade dark spots from hyperpigmentation and sun damage. And although it is not considered an exfoliant, retinoids also unclog pores for clearer skin over time.
If you’re new to this product, watch my YouTube video or check out my retinoid guide. It covers everything you need to know before getting started.
Dermaplaning doesn’t pack the punch influencers say it does
Often, if something sounds too good to be true, it is. Dermaplaning promises a lot of benefits, but most aren’t backed by any research.
That said, don’t feel ashamed or embarrassed to shave your face. If you’re truly only shaving for cosmetic reasons, like PCOS facial hair or better makeup application, do it. Just don’t expect it to be a miracle hack for perfect skin and accept that it often comes with downsides: breakouts, cuts etc.
For more ways to edit your routine, read these next:
