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This post is a compilation of the best azelaic acid products for acne prone skin, as an azelaic acid user of almost three years.
I’ll also share my best azelaic acid products for other skin types too, like: rosacea-prone skin, sensitive skin, perioral dermatitis and more.
Finally, after the product recommendations I’ll give my tips on how to use azelaic acid in your skin routine, the benefits of a prescription-strength formula vs. over the counter products and more.
Best azelaic acid products for acne prone skin
Realistically, any azelaic acid cream, gel or serum is a good option for acne prone skin, so try not to stress too much about which one you pick.
Still, I’m happy to help you make your decision. I’ll start with what I personally use, which is a prescription-strength formula.
Best prescription azelaic acid for acne
You can either get prescription strength azelaic acid from your GP or doctor, or an online pharmacy. Check out this guide I made on how to get prescription azelaic acid.
1. Finacea gel 15%
Finacea is the brand my dermatologist recommended me to get and I find it really easy to use and get along with.
I really notice its anti-inflammatory properties because it helps calm my perioral dermatitis so well, and helps me tolerate my retinoid with less skin irritation.
My skin texture was already quite smooth so I can’t say it has changed that too much, because my retinoid keeps it in check. However, my friends who use it have also reported back to me that its done a lot for their texture.
It’s a white ‘gel’ that actually looks more like a cream. I apply a pea sized blob after cleansing, every other day.
I prefer to use it in the evening because I do notice it sometimes leaves white ‘streaks’ on my face. Not ideal but it’s so worth it for me as they kind of ‘melt’ away with other serums anyway etc.
2. Skinoren 20% cream
Skinoren is another popular prescription azelaic acid cream that’s often used for rosacea symptoms and acne management.
I haven’t personally used it but I often read good things about it on reddit.
20% is the strongest azelaic acid you can get and, although it does sound quite high, azelaic acid is overall quite a gentle active. So all in all, I wouldn’t be scared if you have been prescribed it.
Best over the counter azelaic acid for acne
Over the counter azelaic acid can be just as effective as prescription azelaic acid for acne-prone skin and uneven skin tone. This is because you can get the same strengths in both OTC and prescription.
1. Dermatica Clarifying azelaic acid 15–20% cream
The Dermatica Clarifying Azelaic Acid 15-20% cream is one of the most popular topical azelaic acid creams available. There was a shortage a couple of years ago and people were in uproar!
In general, I really like Dermatica’s own brand skin care products. They focus on quality formulas and active ingredients.
I probably wouldn’t recommend starting at 20% if you’ve never used azelaic acid before and haven’t been prescribed it, but I think most people can probably get away with 15% to start.
2. Theramid AZID 15% azelaic acid
I think the Theramid AZID cream gel is one of the best azelaic acid products for sensitive skin or perioral dermatitis, because it’s in a soothing base formula.
In all honesty, azelaic acid is quite a difficult skincare ingredient to formulate with – often becoming grainy or leaving white smears on the face. This means you may not find one that’s super hydrating on its own, but this one probably comes the closest because it contains oat and ceramides.
3. Inkey List 10% azelaic acid
The Inkey List make good skincare products on the whole, and this Inkey List 10% azelaic acid gel is a good budget azelaic acid option.
This one has a mild green tint to temporarily mask redness. Although I don’t have much redness, I’m not sure how much I buy the efficacy of that feature. Nonetheless, you can definitely still get azelaic acid’s benefits in this 10% formula.
And if you’re not sure which strength azelaic acid to choose, I will do a whole section on that after the product recommendations.
4. Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum
If you generally prefer Korean beauty products, Anua’s azelaic acid products come in both 10 and 15% strengths.
I find that Korean and Japanese skincare products generally make the best azelaic acid serums that are your typical watery serum texture, as opposed to creams. These might suit oily skin better but it’s not a ‘must’, just a personal preference.
The Anua Azelaic Acid is combined with hyaluronic acid to add more water back into dehydrated skin, and layers more easily than cream products I find. The texture of azelaic acid you choose is just a personal preference in your skin care routine.
However, the serum does contain niacinamide which I’m aware not everyone likes. The good news is that they also make a toner pad fomula without niacinamide.
5. Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 10% Serum
The Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 10% Serum has been quietly sitting in the background for years before azelaic acid became popular!
It’s a reliable little serum and a great choice if you prefer a serum with a dropper style bottle.
I also like that this serum has very few ingredients, so it’s another good azelaic acid product for very sensitive skin. Going for products with very few ingredients in general is a good tip for very acne prone and sensitive skin types – the less ingredients, the lower the risk your skin disagrees with one of them.
6. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
When I last tried The Ordinary Azelaic Acid years ago, it felt quite grainy and I didn’t love it.
However I have since been told that they texture has changed for the better so it’s now a more viable budget azelaic acid product.
Is prescription azelaic acid better than over the counter?
You’re probably wondering ‘is prescription azelaic acid worth it?’ and what exactly makes azelaic acid prescription or not. It’s all to do with what kinds of claims the brand makes about it, rather than the efficacy, and the laws in the country it’s abiding to.
You can get 15-20% azelaic acid in both prescription and non prescription formulas. All in all, it doesn’t really matter if you use prescription or not, and you can still get the benefits of azelaic acid over the counter.
I personally use Finacea Gel (which is prescription) because I saw a board-certified dermatologist and she prescribed it to me. Since it works well for me, I don’t bother changing it.
I also quite like using prescription products because, since they’re classed as medications, they don’t tend to get discontinued or reformulated randomly like OTC products.
What strength azelaic acid should I use?
When choosing the right azelaic acid strength, you should be aware that it is not equivalent to retinoids (this is a common confusion). It is true that higher concentrations are more likely to be effective for:
- The treatment of rosacea
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- Appearance of dark spots
However, you can still get good results at 10%. Another misconception is that you need to start low and ‘move up’ continually. You don’t need to do this, you can choose either 10 or 15% and most probably be fine. If you like the results you don’t have to move up at all, ever!
My only advice is probably not to start at 20% because azelaic acid can cause some itchiness, and it probably will be a little uncomfortable if you start on 20% – but 15% could easily be fine. It is really up to each individual’s skin.
Azelaic acid vs retinol for acne
I’ve noticed that, since azleaic acid and retinoids have both become more popular recently, people have confused them a little. They are both very effective treatment options but for different things and they work very differently.
They are both a topical treatment designed to help a number of skin conditions: acne treatment, fade acne marks, unclog pores, brighten overall skin tone and more.
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid (basically a naturally occurring acid within our skin) that works by:
- Having antibacterial properties (helpful for all kinds of acne, including hormonal acne)
- Reducing excess melanin production (hyperpigmentation) by acting as a tyrosinase inhibitor – it essentially blocks the hyperpigmentation process
- Keeping hair follicles clear with a very mild exfoliating effect. It is keratolytic meaning it helps to normalise skin cell shedding that may contribute to clog pores.
- Generally being anti-inflammatory, which is why it’s effective for concerns like rosacea and perioral dermatitis
Retinoids are a type of skincare product that utilise vitamin A‘s beneficial effects. They work by:
- Increasing skin cell turnover so that your skin is constantly renewing itself
- Keeping the hair follicle clear from dead skin cells, sebum and debris that may cause clogged pores or inflamed acne.
- Boosting collagen synthesis to reduce the appearance of fine lines and sun damage.
As you can see, they work very differently. This is why I use them both in my routine on alternate days. Retinoids are far more powerful for acne management, on the whole.
Side effects of azelaic acid cream
Before you use azelaic acid you should know about the main side effect, which is tingling and itching.
Personally I never experienced this side effect, but it is quite common. It’s nothing to be alarmed by and should go away with continued use.
Facial swelling, however, is not a side effect and would indicate an allergic reaction – I recommend washing it off immediately and seeking medical help if this happens.
If you get bad itching with 15%, for example, you may want to try getting your skin used to a 10% formula for a while.
When to use azelaic acid in skincare routine
If you’re wondering how to layer azelaic acid and retinol together, you’ll be pleased to hear that azelaic acid can be layered with nearly anything. However that doesn’t mean that you should, just because you can.
Personally I choose not to layer them and instead to use them on alternating evenings because I find my skin is less likely to develop random irritation when I am more cautious like this – and I am still really happy with my results!
It’s going to be a case of trial and error to find your perfect balance, but luckily azelaic acid plays nicely with pretty much all other skincare actives:
- Salicylic acid
- Glycolic acid
- Vitamin C
- Niacinamide
- Retinoids
The world is your oyster but please go gently – it’s still better to keep things minimal IMO!
This was the best azelaic acid products for acne prone skin. You may also like:
- Retinol vs Retinoid: the Best Retinoids for Clogged Pores
- The Best SPF for Closed Comedones and Acne-Prone Skin
