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If you’re looking to improve acne, reduce pigmentation or address early signs of ageing, you’ve probably come across both azelaic acid and retinoids.
They’re two of the most well-researched topical ingredients available, but many people wonder whether they can be used together or if doing so will simply lead to irritation.
So, can you use a retinoid and azelaic acid together? For many people, yes!
Although they work in different ways, azelaic acid and retinoids can complement each other really well. The trick isn’t just using both products, though. It’s introducing them gradually, prioritising hydration and giving your skin time to adjust.
In this guide, I’ll explain how these ingredients work together, the potential side effects to look out for, and the best ways to introduce them into your routine without overwhelming your skin.
Why Azelaic Acid and Retinoids Work Well Together
There’s a reason dermatologists recommend these ingredients so often. Both are backed by years of research and can help with acne and post-inflammatory pigmentation, but they each bring something slightly different to the table.
Retinoids work by speeding up skin cell turnover. This helps keep pores clear, reduce breakouts and, over time, improve skin texture. They’re also one of the best-studied ingredients for treating acne and stimulating collagen production, which is why they’re often recommended for fine lines and signs of ageing.
Azelaic acid works differently. It helps reduce acne-causing bacteria, calms inflammation and slows excess pigment production, making it particularly useful if you’re dealing with redness, rosacea or the marks left behind after breakouts.
Because they target your skin in different ways, they can complement each other really well. Instead of relying on one ingredient to do everything, you’re tackling acne, pigmentation and overall skin quality from multiple angles.
Are There Any Side Effects to Watch Out For?
Like most active skincare ingredients, azelaic acid and retinoids can cause temporary irritation, dryness, redness, or peeling, particularly when you first introduce them into your routine.
The good news is that this doesn’t happen to everyone. In many cases, irritation isn’t caused by the ingredients themselves, but by introducing them too quickly or using them more often than your skin can comfortably tolerate.
One of the biggest mistakes people make is trying to do too much, too soon, and it’s a concern shared by dermatologists too. It’s much easier to prevent irritation than to repair a damaged skin barrier, so don’t feel pressured to use both ingredients every day from the start.
If your skin does become sore, excessively dry or persistently irritated, reduce how often you’re using your active ingredients and focus on hydration while your skin recovers.
Your skin doesn’t get bonus points for tolerating irritation. Going slowly will almost always give you better long-term results than trying to do too much too soon.
How to Use a Retinoid and Azelaic Acid Together
There are lots of different ways to combine azelaic acid and a retinoid, but here’s the approach I’d recommend.
Start with azelaic acid
Rather than introducing both ingredients at once, start with azelaic acid, as it’s generally easier to tolerate. I use Finacea, but there are plenty of over-the-counter options available too.
I’d give your skin one to two months to adjust before introducing a retinoid. It takes away the guesswork if your skin does become irritated, and it gives your skin time to build tolerance before adding another active ingredient.
Increase your barrier serum before increasing your actives
When I say barrier serum, I’m talking about a hydrating serum with ingredients like glycerin, panthenol, beta-glucan or ceramides that help support your skin barrier.
If your skin starts feeling tighter, drier or more sensitive than usual, increase your barrier serum to twice a day instead of once. Prevention is always better than cure.
One thing people often overlook when using active ingredients is hydration. Azelaic acid and retinoids can both be drying, so without enough hydration your skin can actually end up looking worse before it looks better.
I like to think of it like this:
- Barrier serum = hydration.
- Moisturiser = seals that hydration into the skin.
- SPF does the same job during the day while protecting your skin from UV damage.
Stick with it
This is probably the hardest part. Both azelaic acid and retinoids take time to work, so don’t expect dramatic changes after a couple of weeks.
Aim to stick with your routine for at least six to nine months, because the results really do compound over time.
Don’t forget your sunscreen
If you’re using a retinoid, sunscreen isn’t optional.
UV exposure can make pigmentation more difficult to improve, and there’s little point investing in active ingredients if you’re not protecting your skin during the day.
A broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is the easiest way to protect the progress you’re making.
An Example Evening Routine
- Double cleanse. Start with an oil-based cleanser to remove sunscreen and makeup, then follow with a water-based cleanser to wash away any remaining dirt and impurities.
- Pat your skin completely dry. Then apply either your retinoid or your azelaic acid. I alternate them instead of layering them in the same routine to minimise unnecessary irritation.
- Wait 10 minutes. This gives your active ingredient time to absorb before moving on to the next step.
- Apply your barrier serum. This helps replenish hydration and supports your skin barrier while you’re using active ingredients.
- Finish with your moisturiser. This helps lock in hydration and reduce moisture loss overnight.
Dos and Don’ts When Combining Azelaic Acid and a Retinoid
- Do: Start with a 10% or 15% azelaic acid if you’re a beginner. I wouldn’t recommend jumping straight to 20%.
- Do: Apply your active ingredients to completely dry skin. Damp skin can increase the penetration of active ingredients, making irritation more likely.
- Do: Use a thin, even layer. More product doesn’t mean better or faster results. It usually just means more side effects.
- Do: Always wear sunscreen every morning. Protecting your skin from UV damage will help prevent pigmentation from returning, so you get the most out of your routine.
- Don’t: Feel like you have to layer them. You can, but I personally prefer alternating them to avoid unnecessary irritation.
- Don’t: Panic if you experience some mild stinging or itching at first. A little sensation while your skin adjusts can be normal.
Should You Use Azelaic Acid and a Retinoid?
When used correctly, azelaic acid and retinoids can tackle acne, post-inflammatory pigmentation, uneven skin tone and the early signs of ageing.
The trick isn’t rushing into it. Introduce them gradually, prioritise hydration and give your skin time to adapt.
If you enjoyed this guide and want more practical skincare advice, ingredient breakdowns and my favourite product recommendations, you’ll find plenty more over on my Substack, including my guide to the best azelaic acid products ( over-the-counter and prescription).
