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Acne scarring can be really irritating. Even after you’ve done the hard work of treating your acne, dark marks and red spots can derail your clear-skin goals. You put so much effort into a smart, consistent skincare routine, yet the reminders of past breakouts are still there.
That’s why so many people with acne-prone skin search for ingredients that can fade acne scars and restore an even complexion. But which ones actually work?
One ingredient that always comes up in this conversation is salicylic acid. However, I don’t personally think that’s always the best ingredient for the job.
In this post, I’ll explore whether or not salicylic acid can help with acne scars. Then, I’ll share other ingredients that can deliver better, longer-lasting results.
Does salicylic acid help with acne scars or just breakouts?
You’ll find salicylic acid in lots of acne products. Because of this, many people assume it’s beneficial for fading acne scars.
However, there are three components of managing acne. You’ve got to clear the breakout, keep it from coming back, and deal with the scars it leaves behind.
Let’s get into how salicylic measures up in each of those categories:
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that works as a chemical exfoliant. It sinks deep into your skin to break down excess oil, remove dead skin cells, and clear out the gunk that can lead to breakouts.
It’s good for preventing and treating acne, especially if you have oily or clog-prone skin. In comparison, AHAs like lactic or glycolic acid only work on the skin’s surface. But BHAs like salicylic acid can actually penetrate the pore for a deeper and more effective cleanse.
What does salicylic acid do?
- Unclogs pores
- Treats and prevents breakouts
- Smooths skin’s texture
- Decreases oil
- Minimizes redness
Is salicylic acid good for acne scars?
Not really. Some people swear by salicylic acid, but I’ve honestly never got along with it much.
It doesn’t have any qualities that make it particularly effective for acne scars. Salicylic acid may indirectly have some effect, but it doesn’t fade pigment or rebuild deeper skin layers that need healing.
Beyond the fact that it’s not very helpful, salicylic acid can also be too harsh for some skin types. The intense ingredients can lead to over-drying, which can actually make the appearance of scars worse.
How can salicylic acid help with acne scars?
Salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant, and technically, exfoliating can reduce hyperpigmentation over time. However, this isn’t the most efficient way to reach your skincare goals.
You need a product that targets pigmentation directly. It needs to help regulate melanin production, speed up cell renewal, and support collagen production.
Surface exfoliation isn’t enough. You need to repair what’s happening underneath the skin. Here are some of the best skincare products for fading acne scars:
What are better ingredients for scar treatment?
Retinoids
I know I bang on about retinoids a lot, but they’re genuinely worth every penny. They’re a one-stop shop for evening out texture, treating breakouts, smoothing fine lines, and fading acne marks.
Topical retinoids, like retinal or retinol, speed up cell turnover. This helps your skin shed scarred, damaged cells and replace them with fresh, healthy ones. It directly gets rid of hyperpigmentation.
Retinoids also boost collagen production to repair damage below the surface. This can even help improve deeper, indented scars like ice pick or boxcar scars. There’s no way salicylic acid could affect these types of acne scars, even indirectly.
All in all, retinoids are one of the best treatments for acne scars. And as a bonus, they have plenty of other skincare benefits, too. If you’re new to them, you can download my Retinoid for Beginners Guide to get started or watch my comprehensive video on how to use retinoids for beginners.
And if you’re wondering about adding both into your routine, here are my thoughts on using salicylic acid and retinol together.
Azelaic Acid
Like many, I overlooked azelaic acid for a long time. It’s just not talked about very often, so I wrongly assumed it wasn’t worth my attention.
However, after dealing with perioral dermatitis, I started using it weekly. Almost immediately, I saw significant improvements in my skin tone and texture. I’ve been promoting it ever since.
Azelaic acid is also surprisingly gentle, making it a great alternative to harsher ingredients like salicylic acid or retinoids if you have sensitive skin.
It’s a good treatment for acne scars because it inhibits melanin production. This means it stops acne scars from getting darker while other exfoliating ingredients bring healthy skin cells to the surface.
It’s also anti-inflammatory, which can help prevent and treat post-inflammatory erythema. (Basically, red discolouration from past inflammatory acne.)
If you want to try out azelaic acid for acne scars, a budget option is The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, but I have a bunch of other azelaic acid products for even skin tone here.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs like glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid aren’t as powerful as retinoids or azelaic acid. However, they can be more effective than BHAs like salicylic acid when it comes to fading hyperpigmentation.
These acids work on the surface of the skin, removing the dull, damaged cells that hold onto post-acne pigmentation. BHAs like salicylic acid travel into the pores instead, which is great for treating active acne but not very effective for fading the discolouration left behind.
In addition to their exfoliating benefits, some AHAs, such as glycolic acid, can also stimulate collagen production. As your skin’s structure rebuilds, those shallow acne scars can gradually improve in texture and tone.
If you go this route, try The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner or First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads (Glycolic & Lactic), just be careful not to overuse them. When you notice results it can be tempting to use a product daily, but you can easily damage your skin barrier by doing this.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is one of my favourite ingredients for treating acne scars because it’s simple, gentle, and incredibly versatile.
It doesn’t exfoliate like acids do, but it works in the background to strengthen your skin barrier, brighten your complexion, and reduce uneven tone.
Niacinamide is especially effective for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, helping to fade dark marks or red spots. It also helps control oil production and reduce redness.
That means, like other ingredients in this list, it can both improve existing scars and help prevent new breakouts.
If you want to add niacinamide to your routine, try Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide or PURITO Centella Unscented Serum.
How to use salicylic acid for acne scars
Choose the right product
If you choose to use salicylic acid, don’t go with a cleanser. You want a product that’ll stay on your skin long enough to potentially have some effect on acne scars.
Also, you want to be able to choose as and when you want to use the ingredient. If you use the ingredient in a cleanser it means you’ll be using it daily, and/or have to buy another cleanser without actives (which is just a faff).
Use a leave-on exfoliant or toner like Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner: AHA + BHA or the Superdrug Me+ BHA toner which is basically a cheaper dupe of the Paula’s Choice BHA toner.
Start with only 2-3 times a week
BHAs can dry out your skin if overused. Start by using it 2-3 times a week to understand how your skin responds. You can increase from there if you tolerate it well and are seeing results. Expect a purging period because the salicylic acid will penetrate your clogged pores and bring them to the surface.
Apply it after cleansing
Always start your evening skincare routine by double cleansing your skin and patting it completely dry. Then, apply your salicylic acid product all over your face using your fingertips or a cotton pad if you prefer the precision.
Hydrate and build up your skin barrier after
Remember, salicylic acid can seriously dry out your skin. To keep your skin healthy and protect it from future breakouts, don’t forget to hydrate.
You’ll need a face moisturiser, but I also recommend barrier-supporting products. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, centella, niacinamide, and panthenol.
Commit to daily sunscreen
Sun damage will darken acne scars, making them harder to treat and it will cause you age spots and dark marks that pop up in your 30s and onwards.. Keep your skin coated with sunscreen every day (reapply every few hours) to treat and prevent hyperpigmentation.
Here are my favourite sunscreens for acne-prone skin.
Salicylic acid is best for treating breakouts – not acne scars.
Salicylic acid products aren’t very effective at fading acne scars in comparison to other products. That said, you don’t need to jump to laser treatments or clinical chemical peeling. There are other ingredients that’ll get the job done for milder cases.
For more skincare resources like this, browse more of my blog, follow me on Instagram, and check out my TikTok. I share honest reviews and simple advice to help you craft a more effective beauty routine.
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