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Retinol is one of the most popular skincare products and for good reason. Compared to other active ingredients, retinoids simply do more: acne, clogged pores, hyperpigmentation, premature aging – the lot!
That said, the side effects can be a little rough. Getting through them isn’t always easy, but the results on the other side? Totally worth it, in my opinion.
In this post, I’m going to talk about how retinols can cause breakouts and what you can do when it happens..
Does retinol make you break out?
As someone with acne-prone skin, I understand the hesitation to add potentially breakout-causing ingredients to your skincare routine. Retinol can actually help with acne when used correctly – but yes, it can cause breakouts too.
The truth is a little more complicated than a simple yes or no, so don’t write off this skincare product too quickly. Here’s what you need to know about retinol and acne:
What is retinol?
Before we dive into the how and the why, let’s first cover a very basic, surface-level distinction. Retinol is a simple, milder, over-the-counter product. Retinoid, on the other hand, is the umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives – it’s already active and can come with stronger side effects. Now that we’ve covered that, let’s dive a little deeper.
A retinoid is a form of vitamin A that’s found in a lot of skincare products. When applied, the retinoid turns to retinoic acid and speeds up cell turnover, boosts collagen production, and clears pores.
These effects can reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, scars, and hyperpigmentation. And if that wasn’t enough, retinoids can significantly reduce and sometimes eliminate acne.
When shopping for skincare, you’ve probably noticed a bunch of products with names that sound similar to “retinoid.” As I mentioned before, that’s because retinoid is actually a category term, and what you’re seeing are the different types within it.
Some types include:
- Retinol – most popular OTC
- Retinaldehyde – available OTC, but less common
- Tretinoin – strong prescription version
- Tazarotene – another prescription retinoid
- Adapalene – also known as Differin, prescription in some countries and OTC in others
Is it normal to break out after using retinol?
Yes. It’s normal to have an acne breakout after you start using retinol products. It can happen to a person with any skin type, but it’s especially true for people with sensitive skin, clog-prone skin, or other skin conditions.
Why does retinol make you break out?
Skin purging from cell turnover
One of the main benefits of retinol is the accelerated skin cell turnover. This is when your body naturally sheds dead skin cells from the surface and replaces them with fresh ones from deeper layers.
This promotes a brighter skin tone and even skin texture resulting in healthy, youthful skin. Plus, it keeps pores from clogging, which can improve acne long-term.
But before you get all the positive effects of retinol, you’ll probably experience skin purging, aka retinol uglies. This is when the accelerated cell turnover brings clogged skin to the surface, which triggers a breakout of new pimples. These pimples, though, aren’t actually new. They are the purging of little impurities beneath your skin, coming up suddenly and all at once. The retinoid isn’t giving you new pimples, it just seems that way.
The good news is that retinol actually prevents your skin from getting clogged in the future, helping treat acne in the long run. First, though, you’ll have to get through the purging phase.
Disruption of the skin barrier
Retinol can shed dead skin cells faster than your body can replace them. That means your outer layer of skin, your moisture barrier, can thin temporarily.
When this happens, bacteria, dirt, and other irritants can penetrate the skin more easily. This sometimes results in dry, flaky skin, inflammation, or acne breakouts.
Damage from overuse
Retinol is not meant to be used every day. At least not at first. Honestly, I was using it every day for a while, and even though my skin was tolerating it fine, I switched to using it every other day.
The formula is strong and really does produce results, so it’s tempting to go overboard with application. However, less is definitely more with retinol treatments.
Overuse can worsen barrier damage, reduce moisture retention, trigger breakouts, and increase sun sensitivity. You can even get irritation that looks like sunburn with retinol overuse.
Poor product pairings
There are a lot of active ingredients that can help with your skin concerns. When we’re wanting results ASAP, we can be tempted to use several products at once to get the benefits of all of them.
But that’s not how it works. Products need to be paired strategically. Otherwise, you risk breakouts, irritation, or other issues that can actually set back your skincare goals.
For example, I get asked all the time: Can I use retinol after salicylic acid? And even though both actives can be game-changing for acne, you wouldn’t use them in the same morning or evening routine. Combining two strong actives can trigger breakouts and other problems, especially if your skin is sensitive.
So when you’re building your skincare routine, do a little research to make sure your retinol is paired with complementary products. Or even consider a good 3-4 months getting used to one ingredient before you add in more. It’s much easier to do it this way than to backtrack out of a damaged skin barrier.
How to use retinol without breaking out
Embrace the purge
If you hear anyone say that they have the trick or product to prevent the retinol purge, they’re lying. It’s absolutely not true.
The purging process is just part of using retinol. The severity depends entirely on how many impurities are still present in the skin that haven’t reached the surface yet. That means no magical product or technique is going to stop that.
It’s an inevitable side effect, so just embrace it. Most people with acne-prone skin will have a purge. If you don’t purge – you just got lucky! Take the win.
Just remember, it leads to better things. Purging usually lasts 3-4 months, and then you’ll start seeing results. For now, ride out the purge; it’s a step toward healthier skin.
Start with a low to medium-strength
Beginners should always start with low or medium strength retinol products. Starting too strong can lead to irritation and breakouts.
Obviously, weaker retinoids will be less likely to cause problems, but they do work slower. Once you’ve been using a retinol product for a while and you’re tolerating it well, you can always increase the strength.
A good retinol to start with would be Geek & Gorgeous A-Game or The Ordinary Retinaldehyde. These are both from my full list of the best retinoids for acne-prone skin, where you can find the right product for you.
Incorporate it into your evening skincare routine
Never use retinol in the morning. Always incorporate it into your evening skincare routine. Here’s a breakdown:
- Cleanser
- Pat skin dry with a clean towel (never apply retinol to damp skin)
- Apply a pea-sized amount of retinoid to your face
- Allow that to sit for 10-15 minutes
- Apply a hydrating serum
- Apply your moisturiser
Start with 1-2 per week at first
For the first month, only use your retinol 1-2x per week, spaced out evenly. The second month, increase to 2-3x per week.
By month three, you’ll know how your skin reacts to retinol. You can stick with 2-3x per week, or increase to every other day if your skin can handle it.
With consistent use, your skin adapts and your results improve.
Only use a pea-sized amount
There’s no need to overdo it – just a pea-sized amount of retinol is enough for your entire face.
This may not seem like enough, but it is. You want a super thin layer, so limiting your amount will help you achieve that. If you need a visual on how to do it, I filmed a TikTok showing you what I do.
Cut other exfoliating actives on retinol days
You may have other skincare products with AHAs and BHAs, which are chemical exfoliants. These products are great, but when used with retinol, the combo may be too harsh and strip your skin.
On days you use retinol, skip skincare products with salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, and any other chemical exfoliants. Just let the retinol work its magic.
Commit to daily sunscreen
Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to UV damage because it temporarily thins your skin and can weaken your barrier.
So if you’re not already using a daily sunscreen, start now. You should be applying sunscreen with your morning skincare routine and reapplying when possible.
If you need recommendations, here are the best sunscreens for acne-prone skin.
Use a moisturiser and barrier serum
After retinol treatment, your skin needs the support of both a moisturiser and a barrier serum. This will help restore hydration, reinforce the skin barrier, reduce irritation, and help you see better results.
Keeping your skin moisturised will also help improve your tolerance for retinol, because your skin will be healthy and hydrated with each application.
Use a moisturiser like Simple Repairing Rich Cream or Dermatica Daily Soothing Centella Gel Moisturiser. Then, follow that with a barrier serum like COSRX Centella Aqua Soothing Ampoule or The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum.
Barrier support is an overlooked skincare step and should be included in any skincare routine. However, it’s especially important when using a retinoid.
Lock in for 4-6 months before expecting results
Retinols can take time to produce results, so don’t give up after a few weeks, and definitely don’t throw in the towel during skin purging – you don’t want all that time to go to waste!
Lock in and commit to your routine for 4-6 months before you expect to see results. Like most others who try retinol, you’ll likely be impressed with what you see.
Retinol can cause breakouts, but it’s a normal part of the process
The skin purge from retinol is unpleasant, don’t get me wrong. But it’s still so worth it for all the long-term benefits. The discomfort is temporary, so believe in the process, commit to your routine, and you’ll see results.
For more information on retinols, check out these posts:
For even more, grab my retinoid guide to learn everything you need to know about using retinol effectively. You can also follow me on TikTok and subscribe to my YouTube channel for regular skincare content like this.
